![]() The general degree of hardness of the water should be between 6⁰ to 10⁰. The pH levels of between 7.8 to 8.8 are the best for the red zebra cichlid. Water temperatures should range between 73⁰F to 82⁰F. A recommended filter to use is the Bio-Wheel Filter. Using an airstone or a heavy circulation system will help keep the oxygen levels high in the water. There should be efficient water filtration and oxygenation. The water current should be moderate, just like in the lake. However, they can do fine in freshwater provided there are few or no toxins. The water should be alkaline, mimicking their former natural environment, which is Lake Malawi. Each red zebra cichlid will need at least 5 gallons of water. You should put one male and many females for balance. Just like the other cichlids, they will do well in a community. The minimum tank size required is a 55 gallons’ tank with a length of 48 inches. Below, I will take you through the important facts on aquarium care. You need information on how to take care of red zebra cichlids as they deteriorate in poor care conditions. The nostrils on each side are used to ‘smell’ water. The red zebra cichlids have one set of nostrils as compared to other fish that have two. The fins’ front parts are perfect and soft for effortless movement in the water. They are located on the back parts to discourage predators. ![]() You will see spiny rays on the dorsal, pelvic, pectoral, and anal fins. You will find 0-3 egg spots on the anal fin in both strains.Īll cichlids have a well-defined pharyngeal set of teeth along the throat with the regular teeth. A female red zebra cichlid can be orange with dark mottling or yellow-orange.Yes, there is an albino of the red zebra cichlid. This happens on the fins and throughout the body. They will look like the females until they reach 2.5 inches, where they develop a light blue shade. Males of this strain will have orange/red coloring when young with no vertical bars. Females are pale pink while males are dark brown. It is easy to tell the juveniles of this strain apart. You will also find 4-7 egg spots spread on the anal fin. The redness will spread, there may be fuzzy white growth and the fish will become lethargic.ĭefinitely want to keep a close watch on this one.Their body is light blue with faint bars running vertically. If the gill color is a parasite or disease then you'll soon start to notice more symptoms. So sorry, it's unclear what's going on here. Sometimes Fish '2' will allow fish '1' to come out to eat, but not always. ![]() If you look long enough what you'll notice is that as soon as fish '1' starts to swim away from it's place fish '2' will stop what its doing and turn, maybe only slightly, towards it and the fish '1' will immediately turn back to its spot. It may seem like none of the other fish are causing it but keep watching. Often with this sort of aggression what you'll see is one fish, call it fish '1', hanging at the top, or hiding behind something. Could be illness, could be aggression from another fish. Is the fish eating? Is the fish flashing/scratching? Gasping? Does it swim around at all or pretty much stay in the corner?Ī new fish may tend to hide a little for a few days but generally speaking it is usually an indication that something is wrong. I really can't tell from the pictures whether this redness is something more than that or not. Red Zebras do have a reddish tinge around their gills as part of their natural coloring. ![]()
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